Italian fashion house Prada has recognized that its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection includes Kolhapuri chappal-inspired shoes, after mounting outrage in India at the use of the age-old design without appropriate attribution.
The issue gathered momentum after BJP MP Dhananjay Mahadik took a delegation of Kolhapuri chappal makers to meet with Maharashtra chief minister Devendra Fadnavis. They presented a letter calling for steps to protect the cultural heritage and GI rights of the iconic shoe.
Kohlapuri Chappals Debut at Prada Runway
Central to the criticism is the June 23 Milan Fashion Week show, in which Prada featured open-toe leather sandals that were almost identical to Kolhapuris, handmade leather shoes that have a long tradition in Maharashtra and Karnataka. The sandals were merely labeled as “leather sandals” without any recognition of their Indian origins.
In a complaint to Prada, Lalit Gandhi, president of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), noted: “It has come to public attention that the collection contains designs of shoes that closely resemble Kolhapuri Chappals (Footwear), a traditional hand-ornamented leather sandal granted Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Government of India in 2019.”
He added that these sandals are an integral part of Maharashtra’s cultural landscape and support thousands of local craftsmen. Gandhi appealed to Prada to “publicly recognize the source of inspiration for the design that benefits the artisan communities involved, and consider options for collaboration or just remuneration.”
Prada Finally Addresses Criticism
Reacting to the mounting backlash, Prada assured in a confirmation from news agency PTI: “Kolhapuri chappals inspiration for footwear featured in our Milan show.
Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, explained in his letter to Gandhi, stating, “We recognize that the sandals in Prada Men’s 2026 Fashion Show take inspiration from traditional Indian handmade footwear, which has centuries of heritage. We sincerely appreciate the cultural value of such Indian craftsmanship.”
Bertelli also made it clear that the designs are yet to be finalized. “Please note that, currently, the entire collection is at an early stage of design development and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced or commercialized,” he said.
Echoing Prada’s position on ethical design, he further stated, “We are dedicated to responsible design approaches, cultural dialogue, and initiating a discussion for an exchange of meaning with Indian artisan communities in-country.” Bertelli ended by stating, “We would appreciate the chance for ongoing discussion and will schedule a follow-up with concerned Prada teams.”